Skin Care, as a Hobby Pt. I
First of all, is skincare one word or two?
As an internet writer and beauty enthusiast, this question has been haunting me. Well, I finally figured it out! As it turns out, skin care is a noun, as in, “Her skin care is on point.” Skincare, on the other hand, is an adjective, as in, “These skincare products are a godsend.” So, if you see discrepancies throughout this post, you’ll know why.
On becoming an internet expert on skin care
My keen interest in skin care isn’t new. Over the last few months, however, I’ve become an expert — but not the kind of expert you’re thinking. I’m obviously not a dermatologist, I’m not a scientist, I’m not even totally sure what an esthetician does, and I don’t have any real education on the matter.
No, my friends, I’m an internet expert on skin care.
Yeah, I mean, there’s tons of questionable and just plain false information on the ‘net. That being said, you can also find a lot of peer-reviewed studies. And if you’re a savvy internet researcher, you might even be able to discern which studies are BS and/or funded by organizations that want to quasi-prove something in order to sell products.
Skin care, as a hobby
I thought I knew a lot about skin care before, but now I feel like a master. Not only that, but it’s become a hobby. I enjoy learning about the science, and I really enjoy my skincare routine.
In Charlotte Cho’s The Little Book of Skin Care, she explains that taking care of your skin “doesn’t have to be drudgery. This is pampering, not cleaning the kitchen.”
Believe it or not, unless I’m effing exhausted, I look forward to washing, exfoliating, treating, and moisturizing my face every day. So, what exactly does my skincare pastime entail? If I haven’t already bored you to death with grammar and research enthusiasm, go ahead and keep reading to find out.
Visiting the dermatologist
I’ve visited my dermatologist a handful of times recently. Why? A few reasons, actually:
I needed a refill for my Retin-A prescription. I stopped using it during pregnancy and got back on it last spring.
I had some alarming postpartum eczema. Of course, I turned to the internet first. And yet, I couldn’t figure out what the mystery spots were (or what to do about them) until I met with a pro.
I’m Bo-curious, a term I made up to describe those who are curious about Botox — in my case, preventative, itty-bitty baby Botox. I haven’t done anything yet, and Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Seemingly Effortless Beauty, may or may not get injections, so whatever, sue me.
A couple of my moles changed during pregnancy, and I wanted to get them checked for cancer. While none of my moles turned out to be cancerous, I did decide to get one on my face removed.
About the mole removal: Why did I do it? Well, for the same reason I sought out my first Retin-A prescription three years ago: my mom made a comment.
Now, hang on! This is gonna make it seem like my mom is a vain meanie. To the contrary. For those who don’t know her, she’s pretty much the least vain person on the planet. About 20 years ago, she had a large mole on her face removed. The mole had grown with each of her three pregnancies, and she removed it right before she began teaching public high school (to prevent ridicule from vain teenage meanies). She thought the one on my face had grown as well and kindly told me it might be enough for my insurance to cover its removal.
The way my logic goes, if my sweet mother notices something on my face, then maybe I should look into correcting it. And I guess if I’m being honest, I thought it might make my face look more symmetrical.
You can see the mole here, just below my bottom lip.
So, yes, removing a mole usually results in a scar. But for one thing, I’m not really opposed to scars. And second, if anyone’s gonna walk away from a mole removal without scarring, it’s me. I know what you’re thinking: Dream on, idiot! But hear me out. When my dentist, orthodontist, or dermatologist give me specific instructions, I follow them to a T because I know it’ll result in the most optimal outcome. For example, when I had Invisalign braces, I was my orthodontist’s first-ever patient who didn’t need any refinement trays at the end of my treatment. So far, the skin where my mole used to be is healing quite nicely. Plus, I bought $32 scar cream on Amazon, and I’m feeling optimistic about the product’s 1,375 five-star reviews.
Researching which steps and ingredients I should be using
To find out which skincare ingredients I should be using, I’ve been reading a bunch of articles in which dermatologists are interviewed and asked about their routines. Not surprisingly, a lot of derms use many of the same products — or at least the same ingredients. Some common denominators include retinoids, Vitamin C (which was thought to be useless for a while, but now it’s back on the roster), ferulic acid, hyaluronic acid, and alpha-hydroxy acids.
I’ve also read through a bunch of research studies on the effectiveness of various ingredients. And of course, I read user forums, too. After all, anecdotal evidence is the heart and soul of internet knowledge.
Implementing a 10-step skincare routine
You might have heard of the ten-step Korean skincare routine. Upon initial consideration, I thought ten steps seemed excessive. Then I realized that if I accounted for all the lotions and potions used in my morning and night routines, I was already there!
How embarrassing. Anyway, here’s what I’ve been doing.
My morning skincare routine
1. Wash with a gentle cleanser.
I like CeraVe Hydrating Face Wash and the Morning Burst Facial Cleanser from Clean & Clear (a classic).
2. Exfoliate.
I’m pretty diehard for the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Peel pads. However, once in a while, I’ll use the cult-favorite Daily Microfoliant from Dermalogica or just a clean flannel cloth with my cleanser.
As an internet expert in skin care, I can tell you that there are two types of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliation involves a physical exfoliant, like a product with actual particles that slough off dead skin, or simply polishing your face with a cloth. Chemical exfoliation utilizes alpha-hydroxy acids. This sounds scary, but it’s not, I promise. It just means these [naturally occurring] acids dissolve the dry, dead skin on your face — and that’s what the Dr. Dennis Gross peel pads are all about!
I exfoliate probably six days a week. I used to exfoliate at night, but I switched to the morning to minimize irritation from applying Retin-A.
3. Apply a Vitamin C serum.
A lot of Vitamin C serums also contain ferulic acid (an antioxidant), and a combination of these two ingredients seem to be the go-to for dermatologists in the morning. Most will also include hyaluronic acid, which is super hydrating, as it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
All the pros say to use a Vitamin C serum in the morning because it prevents free radicals from penetrating your skin throughout the day. The other thing I’ve learned about Vitamin C in skincare products is that it’s prone to oxidizing. Apparently, every time you open the bottle (or whatever container it’s in), the product is exposed to light and air, making it less effective. Some people even keep their Vitamin C serums in the fridge to prevent oxidation! I haven’t decided yet if I’m crazy enough to do that, but I probably am.
Right now, I like SeoulCeuticals 20% Vitamin C Hyaluronic Acid Serum + CE Ferulic Acid.
4. Apply a lightweight lotion.
When I got back on Retin-A after my hiatus, my skin was pretty sensitive. CeraVe Baby Lotion has actually been the perfect daytime moisturizer. It’s super mild, straightforward, and affordable. Since having a little bit of eczema, I use it on my body, too. And sometimes, I use it as intended (on my actual baby, Louie).
Another thing I’ve gathered from my research is that as long as your moisturizer doesn’t irritate the area around your eyes, you don’t need a special eye cream. Just use your lotion.
5. Apply SPF, duh.
I really like EltaMD UV Daily Facial Sunscreen Broad-Spectrum SPF 40. However, I’ve been trying out some K-beauty (Korean beauty) products lately, and love COSRX Shield Fit Snail Essence Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA+++. I don’t know what all the plus signs mean and it’s kinda oily, but my skin is extra dry from Retin-A, so it drinks it right up. CORSX and some other K-beauty brands put snail mucin in their products, which sounds weird, but it’s a healing ingredient that I think totally works.
My nighttime skincare routine
1. Wash with organic olive oil or a gentle cleanser.
When I don’t wash with olive oil, I usually just use the same cleanser I use in the morning.
On most days, I don’t wear makeup. But if I do, I’ll first remove it with olive oil and then follow with a regular cleanser (AKA the double-cleanse).
2. Let my face dry completely, then apply Retin-A.
My prescription is for tretinoin, a generic form of Retin-A. I use a 0.025% cream, which is not the strongest nor the weakest dose.
I used to only use it on alternating days, but now I apply Retin-A every single night. I think it’s the most effective and actually the least irritating this way. Look at this woman’s before-and-after results from using Retin-A every day for five years!
Also, now I apply a small amount underneath my eyes and around my nose, which I used to avoid. After a month or two, irritation and peeling in these areas subsided — as well as most of the blackheads on and around my nose.
3. Let the Retin-A sink in for about 15 minutes, then apply a serum.
In the evening, I like to use Cosmedica Hyaluronic Acid Serum for Skin.
4. Apply a thick moisturizer.
At night, I’m partial to CeraVe Night Cream for Face, but lately, I’ve been into SeoulCeuticals Snail Repair Cream.
5. Apply a few drops of oil.
I don’t do this every night, but when I do, I’ll usually reach for jojoba oil or a sample of repair oil I got in my Birchbox.
Becoming a crazy person with regard to humidity
As a freelance writer who often writes about HVAC, I’ve learned a lot about humidity and indoor air quality. And yet, I never thought of it as something I personally needed to pay attention to. That is, until I did a little more research and came home from vacation to realize the humidity in our house was at a throat-clutching 27%. (Optimal levels are between 40% and 60%).
In the winter, cold air is heated indoors, which dries it out. Even if you apply the most moisturizing moisturizer, low humidity can keep your skin dry. It can also make you more susceptible to getting sick, and in my case, eczema.
Needless to say, we’ve since gotten a humidifier — the TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier, to be exact — which I keep on all day because I work from home. Sometimes, on really dry, cold days, I’ll also let a pot of water simmer on the stove for a few hours. If you don’t have a humidifier, this is an excellent hack! Apparently, keeping a small humidifier on your desk at work is super common in South Korea, the unofficial skincare capital of the world.
Reading beauty and skincare books
I’ve also been reading a bunch of books on the topic of skin care, many of which are written by beauty editors.
Aside from The Little Book of Skin Care, some of my recent favorites include:
Pretty Iconic: A Personal Look at the Beauty Products that Changed the World by Sali Hughes
Pretty Honest: The Straight-Talking Beauty Companion also by Sali Hughes
Free Gift with Purchase: My Improbable Career in Magazines and Makeup by Jean Godfrey-June
Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist by Debra Jaliman MD
I didn’t intend for this to be a 2,000-word post, but I have a lot to say on the subject. And anyway, I haven’t blogged in a while, so I figured I’d come back with a bang.
By the way, honing in on your skin care is a solid New Year’s resolution, IMO. Cheers to the Roarin’ Twenties reboot!
